My “normal” fusible has been making me very frustrated lately. Ever since the new product came out it’s been gunking up my needles something terrible. So I had to find something new….enter Mistyfuse. Have you used it? It’s so wonderful I just had to purchase an entire roll.
What is this magical Mistyfuse?
If you haven’t played with it yet, it’s a very fine web. Much thinner than other fusibles. It has a great bond and remains really soft after it’s fused to fabrics. No more fussing with cutting out the center of your designs to make them feel softer. No more sticky sewing machine needles and thread breakage.
It’s very light and shifty to work with at first because it isn’t backed with paper like other fusibles. But you’ll get used to handling it.
The same company also makes the Goddess pressing sheet. It’s a non stick sheet made of Teflon and fiberglass.
But Reynolds parchment paper works really well too. That’s what I use to transfer my design templates.
What’s the difference you might ask?
Their Goddess pressing sheet gives the fusible a really nice shine so it’s easy to see. The Reynolds parchment paper leaves a matte finish that’s hard to see on most fabrics.
There are two ways to transfer your designs
Leaving the paper on…
1. Iron Mistyfuse to the back of your fabric.
2. Trace the reversed template design on to the parchment paper.
3. Iron the parchment paper to the fused side of the fabric. After it cools cut it out like normal then peel off the paper.
Don’t like cutting through paper…
1. Iron Mistyfuse to the back of your fabric.
2. Trace the design facing the right way, not reversed, onto the parchment paper. Use a light pencil if fusing to a dark fabric or a #2 pencil if fusing to a light fabric.
3. Place the Mistyfuse side of the fabric against the drawn lines and press. The pencil will transfer to the fusible.
4. When cool remove the parchment paper and cut out the fabric.
Light pencil tracing to dark fabric/Mistyfuse
#2 pencil tracing to light fabric/Mistyfuse
Cleaning your iron
Have no fear. My “go to” product, Iron Off Hot Iron cleaner, works perfectly with Misty Fuse.
The only down side I see…I’m left with lots of fabric bits that have fusible on them so they can’t be used for anything other than fusing. Typically I would trim close to my design then fuse it to the fabric. Now I have to fuse the fabric first.
Anyone know a way around this?
I’d love to hear your adventures with Mistyfuse!
4 comments:
I draw the design on freezer paper, iron it on the right side of the fabric and rough cut it. Then I arrange my pieces on the misty fuse, getting them as close to covering it up as I can. I cut the misty fuse off the roll. Then fold the pressing sheet over or use a second sheet or parchment paper to cover and fuse. It wastes a little misty fuse but I'd rather do that than pre-fuse a larger piece of fabric than I need. I use a bath scrubby to clean the excess misty fuse from the goddess sheet.
Barbara
Stash Overflow
Thanks for the info. I'll be making a very special raffle quilt soon with old school sports uniform shirts and want to keep it as soft as possible.
Save all the bits and pieces with misty fuse on it and make sprinkled blocks for other projects
I hadn't thought of using parchment paper as something to use with Misty Fuse. However, would it be possible to iron the MF onto the parchment paper directly rather than the fabric, then use it like any other paper-backed fusible? Hmmm, I think I'll try it.
Post a Comment